Tuesday, December 07, 2010

Immaculate Misconceptions: Mallorca's holidays

There are misconceptions surrounding public holidays in Mallorca, not least the misconception related to the day off for Immaculate Conception. It is not the day when Mary was mysteriously taken by the Holy Ghost, or whoever it was; that was in fact on 25 March, which isn't a public holiday. What makes 8 December immaculate is that this was when Mary was conceived. Or at least I think that's what it's all about, unless I am labouring under a misconception. Or maybe Mary went into labour having had a misconception. I really don't know. But on 1 May I wouldn't be labouring under a misconception, as this is Labour Day. So, no chance of getting that wrong.

What there is every chance of is forgetting that a public holiday is a public holiday because it does not coincide with one from the land in which one was raised, as is the case with Immaculate Conception. The misconception, however, is that there is a public holiday in Mallorca approximately every fortnight. In England there are eight holiday days, in Mallorca there are thirteen. So, not so many more after all.

However, there is a bit of latitude. Officially, any municipality can have a maximum of fourteen holidays a year, which gives it room for manoeuvre to add the local patron saint's day. I say officially, but there is a bit of craftiness that goes on. In Alcúdia, as an example, there is a saint's day for the town itself (Sant Jaume) and one for the port (Sant Pere). A holiday in the old town is not strictly speaking a holiday in the port or vice versa, but of course this is what happens. Indeed it would be difficult to think how it couldn't happen, given that they are the same municipality. Then there are holidays which are nothing to do with the likes of Alcúdia directly but which have sort of crept in, such as Sants Antoni and Sebastian in January. They aren't holidays, but unofficially have become so.

Where confusion and further misconception as to the number of holidays can arise is with this business of municipalities deciding. I'll give you a case in point. One day I happened to go along to the municipal building in Playa de Muro wherein is the local sub-post office. Tourist information was open as usual, but the post office was shut. "Fiesta," came the word from the helpful Cati at the information reception. "Fiesta? Where? Not here there isn't." "No. In Can Picafort." "But this is Muro." "Yes, but the post office is in Can Picafort." There was something distinctly fishy about this. The post office quite clearly wasn't in Can Picafort. It, or rather its locked door, was staring me in the face. "The main post office is in Can Picafort," added Cati. "But there's a main post office in Muro town." "Yes, but this one doesn't belong to it. It's Can Picafort's."

More fool I, of course, for having forgotten that this was the duck-tossing day off in Can Picafort and for not being intimately associated with the intricacies of postal service organization. Similarly, were one in Can Picafort and wanted, on the same day, to go to the local Eroski, it would be shut. If you were none the wiser, and why would you be, you might assume that all supermarkets would be closed. But they wouldn't be. There would be another Eroski a short drive away in Alcúdia that would be open. Perish the thought though that Eroski, being a Basque company, might decide to apply the Basque Country Day to its Mallorcan shops as from next year when the day is to be introduced.

Despite this confusion, there is, if you are of a mind to think like this, the potential to increase your own personal number of holidays substantially. Bear in mind that on 15 August, you can be on one side of the roundabout entering Can Picafort from Playa de Muro and you will be working. Go to the other side, and you'll be on holiday. How many municipalities are there in Mallorca? 53? Something like that. Each with its own saint's day. Even allowing for the fact that some towns have the same saints, my guess is that you could, by moving around the island, be on holiday for at least 50 days of the year. Now you're talking. And now you're also talking about how those misconceptions aren't so misconceived after all.

But to return to the hard core of nationally or regionally observed holidays, two are relatively recent additions. Balearics Day is one, Constitution Day the other, and it has been a holiday since 1979 and celebrates the referendum on the constitution that was held on 6 December 1978. But why did they choose 6 December? The Constitution had been approved on 31 October of that year. It actually came into effect on 29 December. 31 October might have made sense, as 1 November was already a national holiday. But no, 6 December it was, with 7 December between it and Immaculate Conception. It was all another bit of craftiness, as it means there is a three-day holiday. And 29 December wouldn't have meant much, because from now until 6 January and indeed further on until Antoni and Sebastian, it's all pretty much a holiday anyway.

Misconceptions? Maybe not. Happy holidays.


Any comments to andrew@thealcudiaguide.com please.

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