Sunday, August 16, 2015

MALLORCA TODAY - Weather Alcúdia and Pollensa 16 August 2015


Stefanos

Morning high (7.00am): 19.3C
Forecast high: 27C; UV: 8
Three-day forecast: 17 August - Sun, cloud, 29C; 18 August - Rain, sun, 26C; 19 August - Cloud, sun, 26C.

Sea conditions (northern Mallorca; Alcúdia and Pollensa bays to 20.00): East 2 to 3 veering West by the afternoon.

There was a further storm heading towards midnight which made it hard to distinguish between lightning and the spectacular fireworks of Can Picafort in the night sky. Much cooler night, but the temperature heading upwards today, and things should be fine. There is some risk of rain in the early part of the week, with Tuesday looking more likely than tomorrow.

Evening update (22.45): Cloud at times, sunny more times. Pleasant freshness: Coastal high, 29.2C; Inland high, 28.3C.

No Frills Excursions

Stories Of The Squares: "Café de Plaça"

Plaça. Plaza. Square. Anyone fancy having a guess as to how many squares there are in Mallorca? A thousand? Ten thousand? More? I've no idea and I'm certainly not about to try and count them, but even were I to, the task would be made more difficult by what constitutes a square. It should be obvious - things on all four sides, as a general guideline - but there are squares that don't conform to this model: they are just parts, bits of something else, a promenade or a street which, for unknown reasons, acquire a plaça in their names.

The square is the heart of the village, but at times it's hard to be sure which square is most at heart. A Plaça Major should be a clue. Or a Plaça de l'Ajuntament perhaps, the square in front of the town hall. In some places, they could have either name. Sa Pobla, for instance. Its Major is looked across from the Ajuntament, and from the Major one can look to the first floor and observe the mayor on the phone. Squares, town halls, mayors - essences of Mallorcan life.

There are squares in some towns or villages which have attained such square-like status that they no longer both referring to it by name. It is just the square. Sa Plaça. Sineu is probably a good example.

The squares have their stories to tell, the ones that exist in some of the names. Some stories are simple and obvious. Mercat, the market. Vila, the town. Others require explanation. Puerto Pollensa has its market/church square, but the name is actually Plaça Miquel Capllonch, a composer and pianist who was born in Pollensa. Lloret has Jaume I, the conquering king of the thirteenth century. Petra has its Ramon Llull and its Fray Juniper Serra, tributes to two of the greats of Mallorca's history, one of whom, Serra, was born in Petra.

Integral to the stories of the squares are the bars and cafes. The social lives of the years have been played out, related and discussed and been abstractly engrained into their walls by the coffee, wine and cigarettes of reminiscence. Their stories are those of the oral tradition, the hand-me-down, word-of-mouth transmission of the collective memory. Some bars become iconic, enduring; some change, modernise. But whatever happens to the bar, the square remains unaltered, save for paving, for new town hall street furniture, for renewed lights.

Alcúdia has its squares but it is a town that has more than just the conveying of stories over tables and on terraces. It has a story, a written one and one that has been dramatised. The bar, the cafe, the square combine. In 1965, Alexandre Cuéllar put them together. He wrote the "records" of the "Café de Plaça", loosely based on a cafe in the Plaça Constitució - Constitution Square.

Cuéllar was actually born in Catalonia, but he came to Mallorca and was, from 1943 to 1959, the secretary at Sa Pobla's town hall. He then returned to Olot in the Gerona province and worked at its town hall until he retired in 1979. But he had retained his links with Mallorca and was to strengthen them on his retirement. He had a summer residence in Barcares, a hamlet of enchantment on Alcúdia's Pollensa bay extremity.

It was while he was summering in Alcúdia that he would go to the square. He was, as he said in a 1996 interview (he died in 2006 at the age of 92), suffering a great nostalgia for Mallorca back in Olot. He felt separated from the island and from the people. Hence, he wrote his finest work - "Café de Plaça". The stories in the book, or the records as they are referred to, were, he was to admit, a reflection of an idyll, of a passing from a former time to a modern one, with the regret that came with it. In 1965 tourism was changing everything, even though the square remained as it had been and the cafe was still unaffected.

Cuéllar's book can be misunderstood. A key theme of it was what he called "blessed laziness". It can be taken as a criticism, but mostly everyone at the time he wrote it (and nowadays also) fully understood his point. The laziness was part of life, as was the contrariness that the stories identify. They were stories that accurately portrayed the almost total stillness of Mallorcan village existence. Nothing much happened. Everyone would congregate at the cafe and when there was actually work to be done, a good excuse would be found to have lunch instead.

The dramatisation is the final scene of the five-part Via Fora production which takes place around Alcúdia's walls (the next one is on 27 August). It is of course all in Catalan, but the high farce of the laziness is easy to appreciate. It is a performance of a story of one cafe, in one square, in one village at one time in the past: fifty years ago. It could have been written about any of the ... . How many squares do you reckon there are?

Saturday, August 15, 2015

MALLORCA TODAY - Weather Alcúdia and Pollensa 15 August 2015


Stefanos

Morning high (6.45am): 19.4C
Forecast high: 23C; UV: 7
Three-day forecast: 16 August - Sun, cloud, 27C; 17 August - Sun, cloud, 28C; 18 August - Cloud, sun, 27C.

Sea conditions (northern Mallorca; Alcúdia and Pollensa bays to 20.00): East-Northeast 2 to 4, occasionally 4 to 5 from midday.

The first time the early morning temperature has been below 20 degrees for weeks, overnight rain having cooled things down. The rain and storm today are, according to the met agency, due to be in the early afternoon. Otherwise, cloudy and wet through the whole day. Improving tomorrow.

Evening high (19.15): There was rain but the intensity varied greatly. 38 litres per square metre around Puerto Pollensa but not anything like this in parts of Alcudia. The ducks swim in Can Picafort had to be called off because of the state of the sea; it's been rescheduled for 23 August. Coastal high, 24.1C; Inland high, 23.9C.

No Frills Excursions

The Perfect Storm Of August

Might this August mark a watershed in Mallorcan and Balearic tourism? Within the context of the political change in spring, various factors are colliding, producing a perfect storm of tourism dynamics which might go beyond this weekend's anticipated storm and produce responses to more than simply the collapse of the road network caused by tourists seeking an alternative to the beach on account of poor weather.

In fact, the roads, especially in and around Palma when the weather is less than benign, have already provoked tourism minister and vice-president, Biel Barceló, into declaring that saturation point has been reached and surpassed. Palma struggles to cope when the clouds gather: its roads clogged, its car parks full to overflowing. Why are there so many tourists? Many are the factors, but always taking some into account, such as instability in parts of the Mediterranean, there is one which, more than others, is being singled out: private holiday accommodation.

It will be some months before they release the figure for the day in the middle of this month when Mallorca and the Balearics reached their highest level of human occupation, but when it comes, it will surely be higher than ever before. It may even be substantially higher. Aptur, which is the association that defends the rights of the private owner to rent out his or her accommodation to tourists, is not blind to the problems that the internet has caused. It is speaking of a "bubble" which it believes will burst because of the rotten quality of some of the accommodation, thus fuelling the arguments of the hoteliers that the private apartment is not up to scratch in all manner of ways. This is a fallacious argument because there is plenty of high-quality accommodation, but it is also correct, and Aptur accepts that it is.

The association is pressing the case, therefore, for legislation to get to grips with this private supply, to finally introduce a system of properly regulated accommodation with standards to be attained and maintained. It is the pragmatic approach that the previous government simply refused to recognise the need for, preferring to outlaw all apartments rather than bring them into line with a system of standards akin to the keys' categorisation for the hotelier-owned tourist apartments.

The trouble is, of course, that even with regulation the bubble might well keep growing in its illegitimate fashion. Reservations via web portals for Spanish destinations are up on average by 40% this summer. These include perfectly legitimate accommodation, but they also have much which isn't. As Catalonia has discovered, regulation can bring success in one way - by enforcing standards and by also boosting tourist tax revenue - but it doesn't eliminate the problem of the illegal supply, despite the swingeing nature of sanctions. Governments can say all they like about cracking down, but they - their tax and tourism agencies - are massively under-resourced.

Nevertheless, the need for regulation in the Balearics is urgent. Barceló, minded to be permissive towards the private accommodation sector, is an environmentalist at heart, as is his party, Més. He wants a brake applied to the number of tourists, so any regulation would need to be carefully drafted in order to still allow good accommodation to be made fully legitimate. But brake there surely has to be, and the perfect storm of this August is increasing the urgency.

In a different respect, all-inclusives, something else seems to be happening. It is never perhaps wise to cite Magalluf as a benchmark but if, as is being reported, some all-inclusives there have been knocking in occupancy levels substantially lower than those for other types of board, is the consumer worm finally turning? It was always going to be the case, regulation again notwithstanding, that the consumer would decide. A problem in Magalluf is knowing what type of market is leading to the lower AI occupancy. If it is family, then the worm might indeed be moving in a different direction. Ot is it a case of the family having been deterred by negative publicity?

Meanwhile, Menorca has added its voice to the saturation argument. Formentera already has but can seemingly do little to prevent its small size being flooded by tourists. In Menorca, the threshold of human pressure that it can withstand and keep within the boundaries of its status as a biosphere reserve is likely to be exceeded this month. Wherever one looks around the Balearics, the message is much the same: there are just too many people.

There is another factor contributing to the perfect storm: attitudes of residents. For too long overlooked, they have played a part in Alcúdia and Capdepera addressing the type of tourism they receive on occasion, while in Playa de Palma, residents have had enough. Noise, filth, crime, anti-social behaviour and a consequent inability to relax or sleep are pushing tensions high. They are similar in a way to what led Barcelona to come down so heavily in La Barceloneta. When mayor José Hila speaks of a cleaner Palma, he has to take into account that Palma means more than just the old centre and the neighbourhoods.

It is understood, quite clearly understood, that Mallorca lives by its tourism. But it is tourism which should be on Mallorca's terms, not those of others. It is for Mallorca to decide on the balance of its accommodation, not websites, not tour operators. The overwhelming majority of the island's visitors are respectful. And this majority needs to be cared for properly. The perfect storm has arrived: kick out the dross of the minority, kick out the rotten accommodation, kick out the poor quality end of the all-inclusive market. And keep the traffic moving.

Friday, August 14, 2015

MALLORCA TODAY - Weather Alcúdia and Pollensa 14 August 2015


Stefanos

Morning high (6.45am): 24.9C
Forecast high: 28C; UV: 7
Three-day forecast: 15 August - Rain, 22C; 16 August - Cloud, sun, 26C; 17 August - Cloud, sun, 28C.

Sea conditions (northern Mallorca; Alcúdia and Pollensa bays to 20.00): Northeast 4 to 5.

A cloudy morning and a close one too. Rain for today is looking less likely than had been forecast earlier in the week, but it is nailed on for tomorrow: the fiestas for Assumption look as if they're going to be a washout.

Evening update (21.00): Mix of sun and cloud, cooler than recently. Tomorrow, there is an amber alert for rain and yellow for storms. Could well be wet. Highs today the same inland and coastal, 29.8C. 

No Frills Excursions

Missing A Beat: Jazz and politicians

In 1991, the town hall in Palma, newly under the control of the Partido Popular following twelve years of PSOE dominance, took a musical decision. It wasn't formally decreed, but there was an unmistakably political angle to the decision. Jazz was for socialists.

This, at any rate, was the implication of the scrapping of the Palma Jazz Festival. It had started ten years before. Over three evenings, starting at 10pm, from 27 to 29 July, 1981, jazz fans were able to go to the auditorium to see performances by the Dexter Gordon Quartet, the Dizzy Gillespie Quartet, the Stan Getz Quartet. Later editions of the festival were to include concerts in the cathedral and by an array of internationally acclaimed artists. The festival had come about largely because of the success of a concert in May, 1981, when the American pianist Keith Jarrett had appeared at the auditorium. In terms of star names from the jazz world of the time, these four - Jarrett, Gordon, Gillespie and Getz - were firmly among the A-List.

It is perhaps fair to say that jazz does, or did anyway, have a bit of a political thing going on. Maybe it was all to do with the roots of the music. Maybe it was the nature of improvisation - the freeing of the mind, its liberalising. Maybe there was also an element of the religious: there is many a jazz musician who from times past and times present has discovered Buddhism, for instance.

But to classify jazz as something "socialist" was of course to deny the music to the many who were anything but socialists. Music, as a general rule, doesn't recognise political ideologies as pre-requisites either for its performance or its appreciation. The decision taken, however, and jazz in Mallorca received a distinct kick to its syncopation. The enormous popularity that it had in the 1980s was to take some time to be recaptured.

A generation on from the somewhat bizarre attitude of the town hall, it hasn't been the PP which has been causing disquiet in jazz circles but the other lot. For reasons hard to fathom, the ministry of education, led by PSOE, had decided to reverse a decision taken in the early spring of last year by the Music Conservatory in Palma. It had informed the education (and culture) ministry that, from the start of the 2015-2016 course, it would be including studies in jazz and modern music for the first time. The ministry didn't appear to have any issue with this. Indeed, a year later, the by then education minister, Nuria Riera, was only too glad to appear in the photos taken at the celebration of International Jazz Day. It had been sponsored by, among others, the conservatory, the government and the Council of Mallorca, and had been organised by the UNESCO delegation in Mallorca.

All, therefore, appeared well set for the conservatory to start courses for piano, double bass, drums, vocals, saxophone and guitar. Exams for entry into the courses had already taken place, with assessments made for, among other things, an ability to improvise. Then came the bombshell. The chair of jazz and modern music was to be removed. The new education ministry said so.

It has primarily been the intervention of UNESCO that has led to the decision being reversed again. The course will start, as had been projected, but its future is not secure. The ministry is apparently undertaking a period of "reflection" regarding the conservatory's programme, and the jazz and modern music part of this won't be the same for the 2016-2017 course, assuming it is a part.

It isn't clear if the ministry was guided by any dislike of jazz as such or rather by a wish to consider the entire educational offer at the conservatory. Nevertheless, initially taking a decision to scrap the jazz and modern music chair gave the perception that the ministry had taken a dislike to jazz. It does perhaps say something for the influence of UNESCO that it can get a decision changed. The ministry accepts that the rights of those who had enrolled on the course need to be respected.

An institutional attitude, even if it is not being stated, which seems at least indifferent to jazz is highly reminiscent of the attitude in 1991, and it comes at a time, as was the case at the start of the 1990s, when jazz has never been more popular. You can't really move in Mallorca without stumbling across one form of jazz or another. The current vogue is swing, inspired perhaps by the celebration of the life of one of the greats of Mallorcan popular music, Bonet de Sant Pere.

Music, in all its varieties, offers a considerable amount to Mallorcan cultural life and to the island's tourism. Politicians need to recognise this and to stop messing around, just as they had with the symphony orchestra.

Thursday, August 13, 2015

MALLORCA TODAY - Weather Alcúdia and Pollensa 13 August 2015


Stefanos

Morning high (6.45am): 23C
Forecast high: 34C; UV: 8
Three-day forecast: 14 August - Rain, sun, 27C; 15 August - Rain, 23C; 16 August - Rain, sun, 25C.

Sea conditions (northern Mallorca; Alcúdia and Pollensa bays to 20.00): South 3 occasionally 4.

Hot again today, but there could be something of a shock in store. Rain quite possible tomorrow along with lower temperatures, and Saturday - a day when so much major fiestas' activity is scheduled - has a forecast for heavy rain and storms.

Evening update (19.15): Clouding up somewhat as the afternoon wore on. Feeling close but that's due to southerly air rather than humidity. Coastal high, 33.8C; Inland high, 34.3C.

No Frills Excursions


The Grand Illusion: Policies and finance

The new regional government came in with something slightly less than a blaze of glory. It was under-cooked, half-baked. Its component elements - PSOE, Més and the part that isn't actually governing only supporting, Podemos - burned the midnight oil on many a late spring night in conjuring up a bag of tricks for the new legislature to pluck from the hat and cry magic. You will believe in magic because the government is going to create it. Yes, its announcements of policy were attention-grabbing. Yes, these policies seemed only fair, right and just. But the government was under-cooked by the very process of so many cooks adding to the broth. They were carried away with the policies and there was one major flaw. Money.

These right and just policies include the basic social wage to those without work or resources, the reintroduction of health care to immigrants who had been cruelly denied it. They included and still include the reactivation of the Llevant railway line, scuppered through lack of finance by the Bauzá regime and left to rot until a cheap compromise was discovered - the "green" way. They no longer seem to include, if they ever truly did, an airline for the Balearics.

There is a great deal to applaud about the government. Its instincts seem right. It is fighting the good fight over large retail outlets and defending the smaller retailer. It wants to regulate on tourism matters in ways in which many will applaud - all-inclusives, a possibly more permissive regime for holiday lets. But then there is less applause for the eco-tax, itself as woolly, as half-baked in its intent as the government's intentions for all-inclusives and holiday lets. Give them time. Yes, they should be given time, but the eco-tax cuts to the heart of what most exercises the minds of the government. Money.

The fronting-up to the national government over the retail outlets, the narrative of "aggression" being shown towards the Balearics on this issue, does not endear Armengol to Rajoy. Nor do many things. There is further aggression being displayed by the intransigence on financing. The rights of Balearic citizens, denied for so long, are being further denied.

The eco-tax, prior to the election, was for Armengol a negotiable. It remained a negotiable as the teams from the different parties worked long into the nights arriving at their "agreements for change", the fundamentals of the tripartite government with only two parts active. Armengol let Biel Barceló have his way. Eco-tax it would be. But this was before the new government had truly started to butt heads with Madrid over the most important issue. Money.

For Armengol the eco-tax was a fallback position. If there were not a better financing arrangement with Madrid, it would be needed. She knew before the election, just as she now does that Rajoy and the national finance minister Montoro would not be for turning. This, therefore, was the illusion of much of the policy, one that may fade to the grey of delusion. Money.

The regional finance minister, Catalina Cladera, is now saying that the government's objectives for 2016 (let alone the current year) will be difficult to meet because of the poor levels of finance coming from Madrid. The basic rights of citizens are to be denied because of the national Partido Popular's victimisation of the Balearics. The citizen as victim of Madrid is the slogan of self-righteousness. The Balearic Government has right on its side, and it is there right alongside the citizen in admonishing the austerity, the parsimony and the aggressions of Madrid.

But what did the Armengol government really expect? Did its members truly believe that they could twist Montoro and Rajoy round to their way of thinking? Maybe they did, but unfortunately, the impression is unavoidable. The policies - some of them anyway - were always likely to be implausible because the financing was not going to be there.

Was it, therefore, all a grand illusion? Not completely no, as a change in national government may usher in a new system of financing. This system, though, would at the earliest be in place in 2017 and some of its effects would not be noticeable until later in that year - more than 24 months after the government took office. Actually, it shouldn't, where Biel Barceló is concerned, be a case of may usher in. One of his bargaining chips was to get Armengol to extract a commitment from PSOE's leader Pedro Sánchez that there will be a new and fairer system of financing. Even if there were to be though, would it in fact be in place for 2017? How many other cooks might Sánchez have to deal with? And so, might the regional government end up edging to the 2019 election with its policies and it, as a coalition, in tatters?

Wednesday, August 12, 2015

MALLORCA TODAY - Weather Alcúdia and Pollensa 12 August 2015


Stefanos

Morning high (7.15am): 22.7C
Forecast high: 34C; UV: 8
Three-day forecast: 13 August - Cloud, sun, 34C; 14 August - Cloud, sun, 27C; 15 August - Cloud, 24C.

Sea conditions (northern Mallorca; Alcúdia and Pollensa bays to 20.00): North 2 to 3, locally South 3 to 4.

A hot, sunny day coming, but tomorrow there will be cloud and both Friday and Saturday may well be wet.

Evening update (20.00): Coastal high, 32.9C; Inland high, 35.2C.

No Frills Excursions

Horsing Around: Sassu and THAT sculpture

There was a time when I had this thing about roundabouts: not the fact that no one has the faintest idea how to drive around one, either with or without the aid of an indicator; not that most roundabouts appear to have been created in order to give Trafico ever more places to hang out: not even the comparatively short history of the Mallorcan roundabout (first one, 1976, Palmanova). No, it was what was on them. Sculptures, artistic works, some of which look like the scrap-metal man's taken up residence, others which are just weird, some which do pass as worthy additions to the landscape. As is my wont, I started to research them, i.e. those responsible for the sculptures. Or irresponsible some might suggest.

This was all a long time ago. Perhaps I became inured to the bits of old tat, the surreal, the occasionally splendid. So much roundabout furniture can leave one blind, as it was no longer having any impact. However, there was one roundabout, one roundabout sculpture that still had the power to overwhelm because of its sheer audacity or what some would describe as monstrosity.

In this former life of rotonda research, someone asked me - in 2008 if you must know - when they were going to get rid of that "thing". Who, came the question, must have had a mate in the town hall to have allowed such a "thing". Whatever possessed anyone to dream up this Angel of the North with its complete absence of angelic quality?

Those of you with knowledge local to Alcúdia will almost certainly have got the gist by now. This is the "Horse which looks to the sky (or maybe heaven) of Alcúdia". It is the horse of the Horse Roundabout, the Rotonda Caballo. Or is it a horse? Other interpretations have been made.

It is a horse of course, as Mr. Ed might have said. The sculptor specialised in horses, often kicking ones, styled in a futuristic fashion. He was Aligi Sassu, Italian, who had shared his time between Italy and Pollensa (Cala San Vicente) from the start of the 1960s. Sassu was well-known to the art world in Mallorca. In 1996, Sa Nostra Bank acquired a sculpture of his that had been crafted in 1989. The "Caballo Airoso" (airy horse, if you like) is still to be found in the gardens of the Sa Nostra Cultural Centre in Palma. But it, and other horse works, were on nothing like the scale of the Alcúdia horse, while, for all his futuristic style, Sassu had never created anything quite like it in appearance. When it was first unveiled - winched into position that is - the reaction was ... . Well, the reaction was somewhat mixed to say the least.

The horse arose in February 1997. A few months earlier, at a different roundabout - Magic - another sculpture had been given the crane treatment. This was "Leonardo's Knot", the work of Ben Yakober. In July of 1997, the roundabouts were officially inaugurated along with their sculptures and indeed roads. Both sculptors were in attendance. Alcúdia had needed a better system of roads, so Alcúdia got them, together with the roundabouts and the sculptures.

One observer from the time who didn't doubt the necessity of the roads or the roundabouts was more sceptical about both sculptures. He could appreciate that there was something of the avant-garde about them but that they would divide opinion between futurists and those who preferred something more classical. But he was concerned that neither said anything about Alcúdia nor indeed Mallorca, and the culture and customs. He believed that, although Sassu and Yakober were highly respected, perhaps there should have been some consultation, to hear what people thought. He also wondered about who had made the decision. The horse cost four million pesetas, roughly equivalent to 25,000 euros, albeit that this was around 20 years ago.

The cost was shared between the town hall and the Council of Mallorca with its dual responsibilities for culture and for roads. Who actually made the decision regarding the horse, who actually commissioned it is unclear. The observer who asked the question might now be in a better position to discover the answer. His observations came from the March 1997 edition of the "Badia Alcúdia" magazine. He used to write regular opinion pieces. He was and is Antoni Mir, the new mayor of Alcúdia.

Perhaps the best thing one can say about the horse is that it is a talking-point. But there's no escaping it. It is so massive, while lacking a quality, like say the Angel of the North, of some emotion, some appeal to those who seek inspiration and meaning. The horse, sad to say, lacks this and also sad to say, Sassu was so much better. There is an exhibition of some of his horse lithographs at the Hotel Molins in Cala San Vicente from tomorrow evening.

Tuesday, August 11, 2015

MALLORCA TODAY - Weather Alcúdia and Pollensa 11 August 2015


Stefanos

Morning high (6.45am): 20.5C
Forecast high: 32C; UV: 8
Three-day forecast: 12 August - Sun, 34C; 13 August - Sun, cloud, 33C; 14 August - Sun, cloud, 26C.

Sea conditions (northern Mallorca; Alcúdia and Pollensa bays to 20.00): Variable 2 to 3, increasing East 3 to 4 by midday.

Shouldn't be the cloud there was yesterday, so sunny and hot. The forecast for later in the week is easing, though there remains some risk of the odd shower from Friday.

Evening update (21.00): Coastal high, 31.8C; Inland high, 33.2C. Fine day. Friday is now looking distinctly dodgy.

No Frills Excursions

Who Are Fiestas For?

In the late 1960s, a leaflet was produced to promote the Cossier folk dancers of Algaida. This was a curious time for Mallorca and its traditions, the Franco regime appearing disinterested in them and preferring instead to make them subordinate to standardised tradtions of Spain. Flamenco and so on, therefore became the symbols of tradition in the resorts. Apparent disinterest was compounded by migration. Workers moved to the coasts, so when it came time for the annual fiestas back in the village, any number of them could no longer attend. The old traditions began to wane.

The perception of disinterest wasn't an entirely accurate one though. While initially, at the start of the tourism boom, traditions and fiestas in Mallorca were paid little attention to, there was a gradual appreciation that they might actually have some benefit for tourism. A landmark decision in this regard, where Mallorca was concerned, was the declaration of Sa Pobla's Sant Antoni fiestas as being in the national tourist interest. This was in 1966. Sant Antoni does of course take place in January, but even back then, there was a realisation that tourism had to break out of a seasonal pattern. It was why, for example, the regime made "tourism days" mandatory towards the end of September: the season in the early years more or less stopped once schools in Britain and Germany had gone back.

The Algaida Cossiers had something in common with the Sa Pobla fiesta, and they still do. They dance during the summer fiestas of Sant Jaume, but they also appear at exactly the same time in January, when Algaida honours its winter patron, Sant Honorat. So, by the late 1960s the Fomento del Turismo, the Mallorca Tourism Board, was assisting in the promotion of the Cossiers, which also meant that the fiestas themselves were being promoted.

If you go right back in time to the start of organised tourism development with the formation of the tourism board in 1905, you will find that fiestas and fairs were among promotional efforts. Though these were specifically for Palma, which made perfect sense given the undeveloped nature of the island, the tourism potential was being explored.

Come into the present, and two years ago the town hall in Algaida published its strategy for tourism. All municipalities in Mallorca had been told by the tourism ministry that they had to have one. Though Carlos Delgado, the minister who insisted on this, took his fair share of criticism, the order that was sent out to the town halls was a sensible one. For the first time, an attempt was being made at some form of unified strategy for the whole island, a strategy based on the importance of tourism for each and every part of Mallorca.

Algaida, a town with very little actual tourism in the sense of having tourism accommodation, focused its strategy on a variety of elements, one of which was the dance of the Cossiers and so the fiestas of Sant Jaume and Sant Honorat. If you go to the town's tourism website - www.visitalgaida.com - you will discover a fairly decent effort at promotion, included in which are the fiestas, the Cossiers and indeed the Algaida fair.

The point about Algaida is that it is a typical inland village which is easy to overlook. The same can be said for several other villages (or towns, if you prefer). Take Vilafranca de Bonany or Sant Joan for instance. They are quite near to Algaida, but both suffer as they are off the main Palma-Manacor road. It might also be said that they suffer because neither has immediately obvious tourism interest. Except of course that they do, and one interest is that of fiestas and fairs. Vilafranca, adhering to the command for a tourism strategic plan, wants to push its melon fair in early September. Sant Joan, by its very name, has an obvious association with the fiestas of Sant Joan - John the Baptist - in June and August (one for his birth, one for his death). Neither town has gone as far as Algaida has in promoting fiestas, but both have an appreciation of the potential tourism benefit.

The title of this article asks who the fiestas are for. Fundamentally, they are for the local people. There has, though, been some disquiet expressed at the possibility of village fiestas being the target for tourists. But in one way or another, they always have been. It would be most unlikely, even with stronger promotion, that the village fiestas would ever be flooded with tourists, as it would need excursions' operators to do so, and they, with the odd exception, don't bother. To suggest, however, that these village fiestas are not for tourists would be wrong. The tourism value was recognised over a hundred years ago, it was understood by the Franco regime, and it has now, strategically, also been recognised.

Monday, August 10, 2015

MALLORCA TODAY - Weather Alcúdia and Pollensa 10 August 2015


Stefanos

Morning high (6.30am): 21C
Forecast high: 29C; UV: 8
Three-day forecast: 11 August - Sun, 30C; 12 August - Sun, cloud, 32C; 13 August - Sun, cloud, 31C.

Sea conditions (northern Mallorca; Alcúdia and Pollensa bays to 20.00): Variable 3, locally 4 during the afternoon.

Clear sky and a somewhat fresher morning than mornings have been lately. An outside chance of a shower but reducing by the afternoon and bringing some stable, hot weather again until Thursday, when there is a further risk of showers.

Evening update (20.45): Heavy clouds at times, but no rain. Sunny also. Coastal high, 29C; Inland high, 30.9C.

No Frills Excursions

Swing Low, Sweet Health Service

"I looked over Jordan, and what did I see? Coming for to carry me home? A band of angels coming after me." Rugby has yet to become a dominant sport in Mallorca, which is probably just as well. How would the health service A&E departments cope with the additional broken limbs and, more significantly, all those needing their stomachs pumped after a night of swinging low, bar diving and extreme drinking? Someone who might know the answer is Jordan Thomas. And he is? The latest recruit to the regional government's department of Gómez-Fuster, formerly known as the health ministry but renamed after the married couple running it.

Youth unemployment and all that, lack of what is regularly termed "quality" employment, especially for the youth, and all that, but we hadn't realised that PSOE would be employing bands of angels coming after 20-year-olds and handing them out contracts for over forty grand to take on some advisory job in the health service as part of a grand youth training, job creation scheme. Normally, such aspiring young bureaucrats are given gigs as interns and told to learn on the job for a pittance, if that. It is far less normal to learn on the job backed up by 46,283 euros a year pre-tax. Jordan, so we understand, has little or no qualification for his advisory job, so why has he got it?

The answer would seem to lie along the corridors of power in the Ministry of Gómez-Fuster, the one where the minister, (Patricia) Gómez, handed the task of director-general of the IB-Salut health service to Mr. Gómez, aka (Juli) Fuster. Interestingly enough, and no doubt purely coincidentally, Jordan was number three on the PSOE list of candidates for councillor posts in Santanyi at the recent election. At number one on the list was Juli. 

When Juli landed his job, the Partido Popular's Marga Prohens levelled the nepotism charge at Juli's missus. She was, as were others, perhaps willing to accept that, although the appointment looked a tad iffy, Juli was indeed eminently qualified for the post (which he was). Now, however, Marga points out that the Ministry of Gómez-Fuster doesn't even have that excuse. And she is not the only one who finds Jordan and the assistance he has been given by the angels of the health ministry more than a tad iffy.

Alberto Jarabo, leader of the Balearic wing of the anti-nepotism political conglomerate Wecan, i.e. Podemos, has wondered if Jordan is possessed of "precocious genius" in the mould of, say, Orson Welles. Alberto would allude to Welles because of his own film-making abilities, though he might also have had in mind the Hearst dynasty of "Citizen Kane" being reinvented as the Gómez-Fuster dynasty. A word on every politicians' lips at present - the politicians of the PSOE-led pact that is - is "citizen". Everything is being done in the name of the citizen. Just listen to Armengol and government spokesperson, Marc Pons, drone on and you will realise this.

So how does youthful Jordan with his substantial salary fit with the needs of the citizenry? The answer, according to Patricia, lies with social media, which I'm sure you will all have realised to be the case. "We know that the great gurus of social networks are around twenty years old," she said. What is she on? Well, it isn't the flakka drug, but this and the dangers of other drugs appear to be the motivation for appointing a youth to a position of relatively high command in the health service: in order that he can communicate with other youth. When she puts it like that, it all makes sense of course, but then if there are that many great gurus of social networks out there in Twitterland, couldn't she have found someone a little further from the Gómez-Fuster home? And to make matters slightly worse, Jordan has blocked access to his Twitter account to anyone who wasn't previously a follower. His gurudom has thus been rendered non-dialogue, which in the new political climate is most certainly not de rigueur. From sweet chariot to chariots of political controversy fire.

* Jordan Thomas has now resigned.

Sunday, August 09, 2015

MALLORCA TODAY - Weather Alcúdia and Pollensa 9 August 2015


Stefanos

Morning high (6.15am): 24.2C
Forecast high: 28C; UV: 8
Three-day forecast: 10 August - Cloud, sun, 28C; 11 August - Sun, cloud, 29C; 12 August - Sun, cloud, 32C.

Sea conditions (northern Mallorca; Alcúdia and Pollensa bays to 20.00): North to Northeast 3 to 4.

There is the possibility of some rain today. Expected to be generally overcast. The week ahead looking a bit up and down - improving tomorrow but potentially cloudier conditions by Thursday.

Evening update (20.45): Quite cloudy at times. A spot of rain but not everywhere. Coastal high, 29.7C; Inland high, 30.2C.

No Frills Excursions

Making Fun, Making Hay: Embala't

"We know how to make our own fun." This might well be the maxim of some Mallorcan fiestas. Despite similarities that the fiestas possess, there are events within them that are unique to particular towns and villages and which can only be explained by a desire to have a bit of fun. It should be true of all aspects of fiestas that they exist for fun purposes - a fiesta is, after all, a party - but some have lost a certain spontaneity, a sense of fun of doing something for the sheer hell of it.

The battles of Mallorcan fiestas might be said to typify a distinction between the spontaneous and the invented on the one hand and the choreographed and established on the other, the latter having been determined by rules of traditional and historical righteousness and by what have almost become a type of fiesta corporatism: the Moors and Christians of Pollensa being an example.

There are other battles which don't conform to scripts and rituals. These are the ones which happen for totally frivolous reasons. There is little by way of tradition to back them up, save for aspects of rural economies which inspire them. Why, for example, do the young folk of Petra shower themselves with almond shells and water, or why do the good folk of Vilafranca hurl bits of melon at one another, or those of Binissalem splatter each other with grapes? There are clear agricultural traditions which inspire them, such as Binissalem being at the centre of the island's wine trade, but otherwise there is no good reason, except for having a bit of a laugh.

A neighbour of Binissalem's is Sencelles. It is also known for its wine business, but it has something different to utilise when it comes to a battle. The people of Sencelles - young ones, though not exclusively - make hay in that they make their own fun with hay. They make hay while the sun shines. Or is it straw? Whatever. They make hay during the town's August fiestas. Today in actual fact.

Having hay (or straw) as a fiesta theme is not the sole preserve of Sencelles. Santa Margalida also has a hay do, but its is an altogether more rurally correct one than Sencelles. In Santa Margalida they do actually make hay; this is the focus of its recently revived "festa des batre", and it will take place at the end of the month. In Sencelles, by contrast, the hay is the centre of battle attention, and it hasn't been recently revived, as they only dreamt it up in 2007.

This is the "Embala't", a name about which there is worthy discussion of its linguistic correctness. Put it this way, there is a lengthy article which considers this correctness or incorrectness - in Catalan or Mallorquín terms - and ends up not coming to a conclusion either way. Essentially, though, it comes from a verb to pack or wrap and is therefore probably ironic because the packed hay in question becomes unpacked. It would, after all, be difficult to stage a battle with two enormous great, circular bales of hay, wrapped with plastic and bearing the colours of the Catalan "senyera" flag.

From midday today until the evening, Sencelles becomes the stage for this distinctly mad event. There is little about it which makes much sense. What have the mobylette motor cycles got to do with anything? Who knows, but there they are from some time after midday, hurtling around the streets while their riders are fired at with water pistols. The streets and roads get semi-flooded and will later on have more water deposited on them when the bales of packed hay arrive in town. And these come thanks to two teams - a male and female one. Off they've gone into the countryside after a good lunch in order to get the two bales, which are then wheeled into the town's centre and unwrapped. This is when the battle kicks off. What does it entail? Nothing, other than chucking hay and smothering someone in it. More water appears in proving that Mallorca isn't as short of this precious resource as is sometimes made out. 

Around eight in the evening, the battle will be over. Not that anyone will have won, because that isn't the point. Indeed, there is no point to it whatsoever, other than having some fun and in also demonstrating that, with any luck, the Sencelles town hall's street-cleaning service is ultra efficient. 

Saturday, August 08, 2015

MALLORCA TODAY - Weather Alcúdia and Pollensa 8 August 2015


Stefanos

Morning high (6.00am): 25.2C
Forecast high: 31C; UV: 9
Three-day forecast: 9 August - Cloud, 28C; 10 August - Cloud, 27C; 11 August - Cloud, 27C.

Sea conditions (northern Mallorca; Alcúdia and Pollensa bays to 20.00): Northeast 3 to 4.

Well, something of a change on the cards. The general forecast for the next few days, starting tomorrow, is for cloudy conditions and possible showers with highs a few degrees lower than they have been.

Evening update (19.15): Clouded over now. There may be rain tomorrow. Coastal high, 32.1C; Inland high, 33.5C.

No Frills Excursions

Beating Borrego: The eco-tax

The twin "causes de la mode" for the Mallorcan tourism industry at present - the tourist eco-tax and all-inclusives - have continued to be at the centre of arguments over the past few days. Stepping into the eco-tax fray has come the highly notable name of Ignacio Vasallo, a leading figure at the national tourism agency Turespaña for many a long year. He has taken issue with the secretary-of-state for tourism, Mallorca's Isabel Borrego, and her comments about the allegedly destructive impact an eco-tax will have. She has said that the previous tax resulted in the loss of one million tourists. In an article I wrote (23 July, http://alcudiapollensa.blogspot.com.es/2015/07/eco-tax-crash-myth-or-not-myth.html), I questioned her figure and the implication she made that the tax was the sole reason for what indeed had been a loss of tourists in 2002.

Vasallo has been making similar points, including the perception among German tourists of that time that they were not welcome in Mallorca, a perception, he notes, that was whipped up by "Bild". Vasallo believes that it doesn't follow that a tax will affect a tourism market (there were various other factors in 2002 - German recession having been a key one), and he notes that it hasn't harmed certain destinations where there is one (Catalonia is an example). The previous tax was opposed, this being a general point, through an orchestrated campaign by the then Partido Popular opposition to remove the PSOE-led administration, and it was one that drew in hoteliers and tour operators.

This was indeed the case, though in all likelihood the PP would have won the 2003 election anyway. But Vasallo's observations carry some weight on account of the fact that he is tourism through and through. The same cannot be said of Isabel Borrego or indeed many other politicians who land tourism portfolios: in Borrego's case, her qualifications for the government post were tenuous to say the least. So, here, in a sense, is a challenge from someone who knows the industry to someone who is just passing through it in a political capacity.

There again, exactly the same can be said of the new government in the Balearics and of Biel Barceló, the tourism minister, and one of the prime preachers of an eco-style tourism perspective, David Abril of Més. Despite the fact that Borrego conveniently ignored factors such as recession that had been an influence in 2002, it cannot and should not be ignored that there was also a political agenda that the 1999-2003 PSOE-led administration had. It was one that had been summed up by the then tourism and environment ministers, when there were allusions to ending mass tourism. At minimum, a reduction in the region of two million tourists had been referred to.

The point is that there are very similar views lurking within the new government. Barceló himself, largely because of one particular press interview, is currently being characterised as moderate. But behind him is David Abril, from the same party (Més), who is less so. Though a new tax might not result in fewer tourists, is there, nonetheless, a policy to seek a reduction in tourism numbers? It has been implied but not overtly stated, but what most certainly has been stated has been the policy pursuit of the "quality" tourist, a being the 1999-2003 administration also craved. In this, there is the link to all-inclusives.

Llucmajor is another town - in addition to Manacor and Calvia - where the changes in regional and municipal administrations have been the backdrop to political demands for all-inclusive regulation and to calls from various associations which now sense that there are administrations more amenable to their cause. One of these is the small to medium-sized businesses association, Pimem. It has called on Llucmajor's mayor, Jaume Tomás, to apply the maximum possible rates on hotels which offer all-inclusive: presumably, this is aimed at Arenal. One fancies that were this to be done, then the lawyers would have a field day.

Friday, August 07, 2015

MALLORCA TODAY - Weather Alcúdia and Pollensa 7 August 2015


Stefanos

Morning high (6.30am): 23.5C
Forecast high: 34C; UV: 9
Three-day forecast: 8 August - Sun, 32C; 9 August - Sun, cloud, 28C; 10 August - Sun, cloud, 28C.

Sea conditions (northern Mallorca; Alcúdia and Pollensa bays to 20.00): East-Southeast 2 to 3, locally Northeast 4 during the afternoon.

Some more breeze than usual first thing, but not forecast to be particularly breezy. Hot again with sun all the way. The weekend due to see more by way of cloud by Sunday.

Evening update (20.00): Coastal high, 34.6C; Inland high, 36.6C.

No Frills Excursions

Anyone Who Had A Heart: Cilla

British pop music, at the time when The Beatles and others invented it, was dominated by men. There's a photo of those who had appeared on an edition of "Ready Steady Go!". In it, there is only one female: the co-presenter, Cathy McGowan. But Cathy wasn't the original presenter. Dusty Springfield was. Dusty was to morph from the nice girl of the folk trio The Springfields into one of the great white soul singers. She assumed a role somewhat different to that of her contemporaries. Dusty was more edgy, and her later life confirmed this. Like the barefooted Sandie Shaw, she was to be rediscovered in the 1980s, thanks to the arrival of the synth pop groups. Dusty teamed up with The Pet Shop Boys, while Sandie collaborated with the British Electric Foundation, the product of two of the original Human League.

That collaboration started with a reworking of an old Burt Bacharach and Hal David song. Sandie was back in the public eye because of "Anyone Who Had A Heart". Eighteen years before, on 31 January 1964, that song had been released in the UK. It was to create a controversy of a type totally unassociated with its singer. That was because the original, by Dionne Warwick, was considered to be the better version and indeed Warwick herself was none too pleased that this rival version charted at number one in the UK.

Cilla Black was simply not the type of performer who would court controversy. There was much of the girl next door about her, as there was with another contemporary, Lulu, and the two of them were to develop this in a way that neither the edgy Dusty nor the quirky Sandie would have been able to: as television presenters.

In 1969 the music journalist Nik Cohn said of Cilla: "In her time, she will grow into a pop Gracie Fields, much loved entertainer, and she'll become institutionalised". It was an astonishingly accurate prediction but one that took time to be realised. "Blind Date" and "Surprise Surprise" didn't come along until the mid-1980s, around the time when Dusty was back in the studios with Neil Tennant.

If Cohn was able to see into Cilla's future, fifty years ago, almost to the date of her death, there was no hint of this when Cilla came to Mallorca.

The "Majorca Daily Bulletin" carried an advert for Cilla's appearances at the Tagomago nightclub. There were to be four shows (or galas as the ad put it). Cilla Black, the publicity went on, "with The Beatles, Britain's youngest and most sensational gift to pop music". Which might have been overstating the case somewhat in that it ignored the claims of The Who, The Kinks, or even Dusty, but it could be forgiven. Cilla was of course a star, and British pop acts of such status were thin on the ground in the Mallorca of 1965.

Along with that ad, there was also a report. In those days, the paper had a column entitled "Talk of the Town". Naomi Dorfman spoke to Cilla, and the article appeared under the heading: "Cilla Black: Famous - but she stays simple". Here is some of what that article had to say:

"Britain's most popular girl singer, 21-year-old Cilla Black, a graduate from Liverpool's now-famous Cavern Club, which produced The Beatles, will be playing in cabaret at the Tagomago nightclub tomorrow and Sunday.

Cilla is in Palma now, accompanied by her road manager, Bobby Willis, who writes some of her songs. She plans on having a few days rest in the sun before leaving for Barcelona to appear on television.

A tall, slim girl, completely undazzled by her sudden success, Cilla sprang to fame 18 months ago. Overnight, from being a clerk-typist-telephonist and singing in local shows, she became Britain's top girl singer.

But she still stays a simple girl and lives quietly at home with her parents and her three brothers, John, George and Alan. 'I don't know what I'd do without my mother.' 'When autograph seekers knock at our door, and I'm out, mum just gives then tea and cakes to console them.'

Cilla is not dewy-eyed about her career. 'I know a pop singer's life can be short,' she says, excepting The Beatles, who are the Adam and Eve of the game and will go on forever.

Cilla is convinced that people don't know their Beatles in Spain. As she puts it: 'I was met at the airport by a Spanish reporter who insisted I was engaged to one of The Beatles. Don't they know here that two are married and the other two are going steady?' "

Maybe they didn't, just as they would have had no idea that she was to become a British national institution. Cohn was right, but he might also have added that, of anyone who had a heart, it was Cilla.

Thursday, August 06, 2015

MALLORCA TODAY - Weather Alcúdia and Pollensa 6 August 2015


Stefanos

Morning high (6.45am): 22.5C
Forecast high: 34C; UV: 9
Three-day forecast: 7 August - Sun, 33C; 8 August - Sun, 29C; 9 August - Sun, cloud, 28C.

Sea conditions (northern Mallorca; Alcúdia and Pollensa bays to 20.00): South-Southeast 2 to 3, occasionally East 4 from midday.

And another hot one in store today. The met office says that August will be less hot than July, though there isn't a lot of evidence of this just yet, albeit there are indications of cooler temperatures from Saturday.

Evening update (20.00): Coastal high, 32.3C: Inland high, 37.5C.

No Frills Excursions

Beaches Becoming No-Go Areas

Manacor isn't promoting its coves. The town hall's latest guide for tourists has removed the coves, they are non-beaches. The belief is that by not mentioning the coves, "massification" can be avoided. The unspoiled nature of the coves will be conserved, their ecologies will be sustained. Manacor is on a mission for "tourism of greater quality". Instead of the coves, this tourism, via the guide, will be directed to the beaches where there is massification - those of the town's resorts, none of which are, compared with others on Mallorca, that big, but they are big enough to qualify for the massification tag.

There is some sensible but at the same time curious and questionable thinking behind all this. The sense comes in not wanting the coves to be swamped. The curious aspect is that the horribly described "quality tourism" consists in part of precisely the type of tourism that would prefer a cove to a resort beach. The questionable part arises because whatever Manacor does by way of not promoting the coves will not make a scrap of difference. Is the town hall unaware that there is a great big world out there? One on the world wide web.

Making a song and dance, which the town hall is, about Cala Varques in particular is going to have precisely the opposite effect to what the council intends. No one had heard of it before. They know it now. Yes, there are new restrictions on parking that are designed to avoid "massification", but the town hall is thus providing promotion for this cove when non-inclusion in the guide is supposed to do otherwise. The fact is that parking has long been an issue. Trip Advisor can tell you that. Just as Trip Advisor, and other web sources, can tell you how "precioso" the cove is.

And will the town hall be passing on its message to its tourist offices and indeed tourist offices elsewhere. If you have ever spent time observing what is asked at tourist offices, you'll be aware that one of the top questions has to do with the "precioso" cove. Out come maps, and the information office personnel only too happily point it out. Or will it be notifying the tourism ministry with its extensive guide to beaches? Go to this and there is a seemingly endless list of Cala here, Cala there, some of which are the large calas that are beach resorts, but mostly they are the small ones: Cala Varques for example.

This guide does actually advise you to access the cove by sea. Not because it wishes to deter you from driving but because it points out that there is a bit of a trek to get to it. Access by boat is as much an issue for Manacor as by car: they want to clamp down on that as well.

For years, Mallorca has made much of the fact that it isn't an island that only has large resort beaches. The ministry's website, in describing Cala Varques, refers to the quiet and paradise nature of the coastline from Porto Cristo. The vastly overused "paradise" has consistently been adopted to promote the coves, the alternatives to the resort beaches: tourism of greater quality, one might suggest.

Now, however, Manacor wants to put an end to all of this. Which other town halls might follow suit? Are certain beaches around Mallorca to become virtual no-go areas because town halls say so, thus flouting a fundamental principle that the coasts of Mallorca (and Spain) are in the public domain and free to the public to enjoy?

Despite this, one can understand the town hall's position. But it is one that has been forced onto it by success, by promotion through means other than those of the town hall and by sheer weight of numbers: tourists adding to the residents who make a beeline for beaches at weekends and will be doing so during the weeks of August when many are on holiday. Simply put, are Mallorca's beaches being overwhelmed? And is the infrastructure, especially parking, incapable of coping? The answer to the latter question is yes. As examples there has been the chaos in Sa Rapita (for access to Es Trenc) because the unofficial car park was closed. There is the mayhem in Playa de Muro with people wanting to get to Es Comú beach. Neither beach is small. Both are vast, yet the infrastructure can't cope with the demand.

Something, you feel, has to give. Either more parking is made available (though goodness knows where in many instances) or there will be more cases of drivers being turned away by police, as can happen in Sa Rapita, or of passes for residents being issued, which is what has happened by Es Comú. The beaches, the coves are products of their own success and, despite what Manacor might wish, of promotion.

Wednesday, August 05, 2015

MALLORCA TODAY - Weather Alcúdia and Pollensa 5 August 2015


Stefanos

Morning high (6.45am): 23C
Forecast high: 34C; UV: 9
Three-day forecast: 6 August - Sun, 34C; 7 August - Sun, 31C; 8 August - Sun, 29C.

Sea conditions (northern Mallorca; Alcúdia and Pollensa bays to 20.00): East 2 to 3.

Another alert in place for high temperatures today. Little by way of cloud anticipated and not much breeze either.

Evening update (20.00): Another roasting day. Coastal high, 33.3C; Inland high, 36.2C.

No Frills Excursions

All-Inclusive: What Are They Going To Regulate?

I once said that I would never write about all-inclusives again. It had all been said. There was nothing more to say. Over a period of what is now some ten years, thousands upon thousands have been the words I have produced. They have been in consideration of law, of markets, of tour operators, of hotels, of government, of customers, of historical development, of the "complementary offer", of the wider economy, of morality and ethics, of service, of quality, of economic crisis, of the futuristic concept of the "super all-inclusive", of the research findings from the university in Palma and from studies in different parts of the globe that have examined the effects of all-inclusive. Nothing more to be said. How foolish I was to presume that.

Politicians, government ones and town hall ones, have suddenly discovered all-inclusive. Where have they been for the past generation? Observers of different types keep discovering all-inclusive and keep saying the same things that have been said year upon year upon year, stretching back to the last millennium. Round and round and round it goes, a carousel of opinion being regurgitated from mouths that were long ago expressing the now hackneyed insights offered.

In the Balearics, Benidorm and the Canaries, politicians and others are hard at it, discovering the political and moral high ground to be gained by alluding to "regulation". At last, it is said. Where were they in the past? Where were they in Mallorca when the then president of the hoteliers federation (circa 2004, I don't recall the exact date) was making it abundantly clear that all-inclusive was the "future"? By then it was already the past as well. The johnny-come-latelys of the all-inclusive intervention industry attribute much of the "blame" to economic crisis, when this merely strengthened the offer rather than created it. Recession of the early 1990s, it might be argued, was when - in European terms, including Mallorcan - the creation occurred (Club Med and all that notwithstanding).

What are they going to regulate? How are they going to regulate? Out of the mouths of politician babes newly and innocently installed in government and town halls comes the regulation word. Regulation with its own regurgitative homophonic quality; they are all-inclusive sick all down the newly acquired bibs of office. Regional government, Calvia, Manacor. What are they going to regulate?

In Alcudia a party which stood at the municipal elections was one that had been largely born out of a desire to regulate all-inclusives. It has support from local bars. Its mayoral candidate was a bar owner. I know him well. He has my sympathy in his aims, but I have never got a satisfactory answer to the question - how? Town halls cannot regulate the type of board that a hotel offers. They have no competence in the matter; only the regional government can. In Benidorm, they have at least had the good sense to say that findings from the study that is to be undertaken into all-inclusive will be forwarded to the Valencia administration.

But there is a world of difference between saying the government can and saying that it will. Such is the harsh reality of modal verbs and of the market. Yes, the market. Remember that?

While the arrival of leftist coalitions has been the springboard for the renewed attention being given to all-inclusives, my guess would be that there are any number of all-inclusive critics who are otherwise firm advocates of market liberalism, a distinctly non-left philosophy: the market economy, the free market, and the adherence to it enshrined in national and European law as well as, in Spain, the Constitution. Is there to now be a pick 'n' mix of statist and market economies? Perhaps there should be. Yet already we have witnessed how the reality intrudes into statism as applied to tourism. Syriza. They were going to do this and that to all-inclusive. They very quickly changed their minds.

There is an article on the Hosteltur website by Antonio Garzón*. He is a regular writer on tourism issues and he also has a strong background in the hotel industry in the Canaries. He might be considered not entirely independent, therefore, but his article is worthy of attention as is the heading to the original article from his blog: "All-Inclusive, Electoral Slogan".

The thrust of his article is that the market decides, which is a simple enough theory. He posits the question - Is regulation of all-inclusive compatible with a market economy? Let me leave it to you to answer this, but in so doing you might take into account legal and market reasons why bans on, limits to, standards for, prices (through the artificiality of tax) demanded of all-inclusives would be devilishly difficult to impose. What are they going to regulate?

* http://www.hosteltur.com/112204_todo-incluido-espana-cinco-dilemas-si-se-quiere-regular.html

Tuesday, August 04, 2015

MALLORCA TODAY - Weather Alcúdia and Pollensa 4 August 2015


Stefanos

Morning high (7.00am): 26C
Forecast high: 32C; UV: 9
Three-day forecast: 5 August - Sun, 33C; 6 August - Sun, 32C; 7 August - Sun, 32C.

Sea conditions (northern Mallorca; Alcúdia and Pollensa bays to 20.00): South 2 to 3 backing Northeast 2 to 4 around midday.

Some patches of cloud first thing but a sunny and hot day awaits again, following a humid night. Yellow advice in place today for high temperatures.

Evening update (20.00): Was a bit cloudy at times - there was rain in parts of Mallorca but not locally - but mostly sunny and hot. Coastal high, 34.7C; Inland high, 36.1C.

No Frills Excursions

Fun, Fun, Fun: Of holidays lost



"Well, she got her daddy's car, And she's cruisin' through the hamburger stand now. Seems she forgot all about the library, Like she told her old man now. And with the radio blastin', Goes cruisin' just as fast as she can now. And she'll have fun, fun, fun, Till her daddy takes the T-Bird away."

You would stop short of describing these lyrics as "immortal", but in their simplicity, Mike Love summed up youth and summer over fifty years ago. It was what Love specialised in: simple lyrics. His ego assaulted as much as his concept of the pop song was under attack, it was he who took greatest umbrage at the intrusion of Van Dyke Parks into the lyrical world of The Beach Boys. Parks made things complicated and sophisticated, and in the process reached far more deeply into Brian Wilson's multi-stranded mind. Three years after "Fun, Fun, Fun", the first collaboration with Parks and so the sidelining of Love ushered forth "Heroes And Villains" with its allusions to the genocide of native Indians and to the good and bad guys of the music industry.

There is a great deal that is analogous between pop music and tourism of the 1960s. 1964 was still a time for the pioneer, for the frontiersmen of the untamed holiday lands and for those who followed in their droves in airborne wagons. It was a time that was essentially innocent in all respects. Though Brian Wilson could sing of making love in "Don't Worry Baby", it was a time before sex was invented. The girls would borrow the T-Birds and cruise to the beach to be with the surfer boys but when they got there, the result was just innocent fun. For the tourist to Mallorca - young female ones - there was always the dubious charm of the "picadores", the Latin lovers of legend with their phrase-book chat-up lines who targeted easier pickings than those on offer locally who were shielded by chaperones and a strict Catholic upbringing. But for the most part, the third S had yet to be added to those of sun and sea. There was, though, an F-word, and it was "fun".

In 1964 both industries - music and tourism - were only just coming to terms with whatever monsters they were creating. The changes over a three-year period were enormous. The number of tourists rocketed, with all this implied for infrastructure, logistics, marketing, foreign exchange. Operations had to become more sophisticated because they were more complicated. The music industry, meanwhile, was undergoing constant transformation and experimentation along with the advancing production techniques that facilitated output like The Beach Boys' "Heroes And Villains".

1967, in Britain at any rate, was a landmark year for all sorts of reasons. Socially, the summer of love, the pill, the Abortion Act represented fundamental change. Musically, it was "Sgt. Pepper's", "Their Satanic Majesties Request", Pink Floyd and all the rest. For tourism it was a year when, with numbers already rising rapidly, the most ambitious scheme for tourism development ever was architecturally conceived - Alcudia's massive Ciudad Blanca.

For a three-year window, there was a time when tourism was innocent fun, but the dynamics had altered. There were now arguably more villains than heroes in the tourism industry. Gone were the visions of the first pioneers, such as Gerard Blitz of Club Med and Vladimir Raitz of Horizon. Fun became distorted amidst what was a process through which the visitor became a commodity. The very word "tourist" has a mechanistic quality to it: someone who makes a tour, someone who moves and is to be moved. Tourism became a commodity industry. It was de-personalised in the pursuit of more sophisticated systems of process management and mass production.

It was perhaps all a consequence of semantics. The promotion of the "tourist" meant that the alternative of "holidaymaker" was lost sight of. The latter carries an implication of fun that the former doesn't, but while there was of course still enormous amounts of fun, the perception had shifted away from that core element of what holidays should, above all else, be about.

Come forward to the present day, and while fun remains, it has itself been made mechanistic. There is prescription: what you will do. There is proscription: what you can't do. When there are millions of people, there have to be rules. Of course there have to be, but in a sense it isn't the proscription that is at fault so much as the prescription: everything that is laid on; the removal of improvisation and adventure; the branding; the packaging; the facilities of contemporary life - from information to be demanded, not stumbled across, to wifi and the obliteration of free time.

Fun. It should be the first word in the tourism industry's lexicon. Unfortunately, the daddies of the industry have long since taken the carefree T-birds away.  

Monday, August 03, 2015

MALLORCA TODAY - Weather Alcúdia and Pollensa 3 August 2015


Stefanos

Morning high (6.45am): 22C
Forecast high: 33C; UV: 9
Three-day forecast: 4 August - Sun, 32C; 5 August - Sun, 32C; 6 August - Sun, 32C.

Sea conditions (northern Mallorca; Alcúdia and Pollensa bays to 20.00): East 2 to 3, occasionally 4.

A return to high temperatures with a warning for the interior from the met office, though the coasts will be cooler. All set for another hot week.

Evening update (20.15): Coastal high, 32.1C: Inland high, 34.1C.

No Frills Excursions

Our Ladies Of Wecan

All is not well in the Reform Church of Iglesias. The faithful have started to desert the pews of Saint Pablo and Our Lady of Wecan, seemingly alarmed at the thought that Wecan might weaken Spain by converting it into the Greek Unorthodox Church of Syriza. Had this thought not occurred to them before? Or is it the case that the faithful are only now rumbling Podemos? The easy part was grabbing hold of some power at the ballot box. The less easy part was always going to be convincing the faithful (and others) that, once handed this power, they aren't just a bunch of hairies from the students' union locked in mortal combat with each other in dissecting their own version of Dialectical Materialism rather than being taken seriously.

In former times, English slang gave us the "nit". In strictly linguistic terms, nit means nothing. The nit of slang was someone who was foolish, who did not do sensible things, who had nothing to offer except nittishness and being a nitwit. It would be harsh indeed to suggest that Podemos (We Can) have nothing to offer, because they have plenty, and some of it is sensible. However, they are doing their best to appear to be nits, a bunch of Charlies, some right Herberts, or even left Herberts.

Laura Camargo, considered by some to be the real power behind the Wecan throne in the Balearics of Dave Spart Jarabo, confronted the lovely, indeed immaculate Inmaculada de Benito of the Mallorcan hoteliers federation and launched into a tirade of fraud, worker abuses, exploitation, blah, blah. Laura might have a point, but it became lost in the vitriol. Why did she do it? Probably for public consumption. Wecan were wanting to show the Mallorcan public that they can stand up to the hoteliers, that the hoteliers' days in the sun of power are no more. Unfortunately, and despite a large number of Mallorcans concurring with the view that the hoteliers do have too much power, there is a far greater number who rely on the hoteliers and related businesses. Laura really should learn that she isn't in the students' union and that in the real world one adopts a less strident manner.

Our Lady Laura of Wecan was but one who was indulging in delivering sermons from the pulpit of Saint Pablo. There was also Our Lady Xelo. She informed his Royal Highness that, rather than splash the cash on the thrash at the Almudaina when various politicos and others are invited for some gin 'n' tonics, the moolah should go towards soup kitchens. On balance, one would have to agree with Xelo that this might be, in still-crisis times for many, a preferable deployment of financial resources, and the King, thoroughly admirable man that he is, might even be inclined to agree as well. However, protocol and all that does rather intrude into such affairs. Whether Xelo will ask for a doggy bag for her canapes and cut along with it to the nearest crisis centre after the reception, we will find out.

Sunday, August 02, 2015

MALLORCA TODAY - Weather Alcúdia and Pollensa 2 August 2015


Stefanos

Morning high (6.45am): 21C
Forecast high: 29C; UV: 8
Three-day forecast: 3 August - Sun, 32C; 4 August - Sun, 31C; 5 August - Sun, 30C.

Sea conditions (northern Mallorca; Alcúdia and Pollensa bays to 20.00): Northeast 3 to 4.

Cooler overnight than for a while. Clear skies this morning, so no repeat of yesterday's cloud and occasional rain. The outlook is all good over the next few days.

Evening update (20.45): Fine day. Coastal high, 29.5C; Inland high, 31.4C.

No Frills Excursions

Traditional Inaccuracy: Moors and Christians

With the greatest of respect to Sant Elm, Valldemossa (where they only got going on the battle front for the first time last year) and Inca (where they haven't bothered this year), the island's big three Moors and Christians battles are those of Santa Ponsa, Sóller and Pollensa. And of this threesome, Santa Ponsa's scrap is of a different nature to those of Sóller and Pollensa. It was the original 1229 run-in between the invading Christian Catalan forces and the Muslim occupants, while the other two date from the sixteenth century and set-tos involving marauding and piratical fleets of the Ottoman Empire.

Despite its centrality to the cultural narrative of Mallorca - all things Catalan - Santa Ponsa's battle doesn't have quite the same cachet as Sóller and Pollensa. Maybe it has to do with there being a lack of documentary evidence and so not quite the same detail and characterisation. In Pollensa this exists to the extent that they've made some adjustments to today's simulation in order to make it even more like the original. Whatever the reason, when it comes to Mallorca and Moors and Christians, then it is Es Firó in May and La Patrona in August which take pride of place. Of these, Sóller does arguably have the greater international reputation. It also has a wider battleground as it involves the port as well; Pollensa doesn't. Yet, and it may simply have to do with its taking place in high summer, Pollensa has acquired something of a supremacy in the island's Moors and Christians league.

A curiosity of the way in which the town will be packed to its narrow-streeted gunwales today and of the pre-battle electioneering to choose the protagonists is that the popularity of the 2 August battle was attained only relatively recently. Such was a general lack of interest at the end of the 1970s and into the early 1980s that the town hall would issue tickets as a means to try and encourage more spectators. But this incentivising was a reflection of the fact that the battle had long been in the doldrums. Reminiscent of so many other aspects of the Mallorcan fiesta, there was a concerted effort at Moors and Christians revivalism, and one has to say that it paid off. It has been suggested that nowadays tickets should be given out to get people to stay away.

1550 was the year when Joan Mas led the people of Pollensa in repelling the Moorish invaders, but it was to be three hundred years before their descendants started re-enacting the events. 1860 is the year cited as being when the battle was first staged, although it may have been earlier. Whatever the actual starting date, Moors and Christians in its nineteenth century guise was not a permanent fixture until the whole day was given a boost in 1882 through the introduction of the "Alborada", the work of a Galician, Nicolás de Castro and later re-worked by the Pollensa composer Miquel Capllonch. This dawn wake-up now starts at 5am.

Into the twentieth century and to the period of the Second Republic just prior to the Civil War and the battle was at the centre of a political battle. The town had two clubs which represented differing sides of the ideological debate in the years immediately before Franco. One was the Club Pollença and the other was the Solteros. The latter took the Republican side and it considered the Moors and Christians to be the stuff of reactionaries. The Solteros would happily have seen the battle consigned to the bin of fiesta history, but it wasn't.

Coming up to the present, and by contrast with Republican thinking of the 1930s, Pollensa has a mayor, Miquel Àngel March, who is of a coalition which has its contemporary republican sympathies. March, though, has been a consistent supporter of the battle and indeed a participant (on the Moors side). Political correctness does not invade debate over the Moors and Christians to any great extent. What does, is the cultural and historical significance for Pollensa and for Mallorca. Hence, you have what you have this year, which are some slight modifications in order to reflect greater historical accuracy.

However, there is one very fundamental flaw in this accuracy and there always has been, and that is that the battle didn't take place on 2 August. Had Pollensa stuck to the true dates of 30 and 31 May, then it is far less likely that the town's version of the Moors and Christians would have assumed top ranking over Sóller. The question has to be asked, though - why is the simulated battle on 2 August and not at the end of May? The answer lies with the celebration of the fiestas for the town's patron - La Patrona, the Mother of God of the Angels. Her day is 2 August, and there is, in the Pollensa Moors and Christians tradition, the central part that she plays, and that is Joan Mas's appeal to her for help: "Mare de Déu dels Àngels, assistiu-mos. Pollencins, aixecau-vos, que els pirates ja són aquí!"

Saturday, August 01, 2015

MALLORCA TODAY - Weather Alcúdia and Pollensa 1 August 2015


Stefanos

Morning high (6.30am): 23C
Forecast high: 29C; UV: 7
Three-day forecast: 2 August - Sun, 29C; 3 August - Sun, 31C; 4 August - Sun, 32C.

Sea conditions (northern Mallorca; Alcúdia and Pollensa bays to 20.00): Southeast 3 to 5 backing Northeast.

Breezy and cloudy first up. There has been some rain in areas but not heavy. Storm still possible for the morning but improving later.

Evening update (19.30): Some rain, cleared later but not totally sunny. Coastal high, 25.6C; Inland high, 26.3C.

No Frills Excursions

The Neglect Of Calas de Mallorca

Calas de Mallorca is a resort that has for years suffered from neglect. Partly this has been because of its origins as an essentially private development which still creates issues for the town hall in Manacor in terms of services. Nevertheless, last year the town hall was stung into taking action when examples of neglect began to appear in the media. So, it showed some initiative, the lack of which has been the focus of criticism of regimes at the town hall over several years when it has come to tourism infrastructure (and not just Calas de Mallorca). It is a resort which has also become a dumping ground for all-inclusive. In this regard it is not unique, but the almost total economy nature of its some 6,000 or so hotel places has bred a form of all-inclusive that reflects the hotel stock and a level of all-inclusive which is said to represent anywhere between 80% and 90% of those places.

The quoting of such figures is always something in which holes can be picked. Data from the Balearic tourism ministry (such as they are) and information from studies give varying percentages as to the level of all-inclusive. A typical figure has been around 33% for the whole of Mallorca, which might just be believable when one takes account of the island's entire hotel stock but is most definitely not believable at the micro level of individual resorts, of which Calas de Mallorca is a good example.

With a new regime at the town hall, the issue of all-inclusive, as it is in other municipalities, has come to the top of the agenda. But like other municipalities, Calvia for example where the mayor has spoken of regulation, Manacor cannot effect any municipal legislation that limits or bars all-inclusive. It can introduce bylaws that might influence aspects of the all-inclusive offer but it can do no more: it is otherwise a matter for regional government.

If the volume of all-inclusive is as it is quoted, there should be a fundamental question being asked: what is the point of Calas de Mallorca as a resort? If general economic welfare is so limited as a consequence of one particular type of accommodation board, then its purpose as a resort is diminished. It is not sustainable, and in the mantra of the current day, it therefore runs counter to the notions of sustainable (aka responsible) tourism that tour operators and some hoteliers make a big issue of, yet singularly fail to practise.

The new regional administration, with its twin policy items of the eco-tax and all-inclusive regulation (yet to be defined), may well have an underlying strategy aimed at reducing tourist numbers. It is a strategy littered with risks, but if these policies, allied to tactics such as the declaration of far more "mature zones" in tourist resorts, were to result in a decline in the number of places in a resort like Calas de Mallorca but the removal of a great deal of that 80 or 90%, then the cost-benefit equation would in all likelihood weigh heavily in favour of general economic benefit for the local economy.

The mature zones, a mechanism for liberalising and incentivising redevelopment but also forcing it, should be applied widely across Mallorca, but it is a tactic which might itself run up against government antagonism towards in-resort investment. What we are not seeing at present is a clear vision of what Biel Barceló, the tourism minister, wants. When he speaks of tourism re-investment facilitated by the eco-tax, how much of this would be directed at the resorts? Even if it were to be, mature zones rely massively on private investment for the tactic to succeed or be given the chance to succeed, and neither Més (certain members of the party at any rate) nor Podemos are currently endearing themselves to the principal sources of such investment - the hoteliers and their backers.

There is a great deal of muddled thinking at present. While reducing tourist numbers, limiting all-inclusive but raising general standards in terms of the type of tourism that Mallorca has are not in themselves bad policies, another side of the coin is that of employment. And into this equation comes the issue of wages, employment conditions and contracts. A report this week that reveals that increased employment levels in the Balearics are predominantly due to short-term, seasonal tourism contracts will come as absolutely no surprise. Podemos, in attacking the hoteliers for a lack of job security, has to accept certain realities of the tourism industry. Firstly, it is seasonal and secondly, there is a very good reason why wages are as they are - low. Podemos (and the government) wants there to be higher quality employment in the industry, implying higher wages, full contracts and so on. But then what is this employment? For the most part, it is unskilled or low-skilled. This shouldn't be an excuse for worker exploitation, but tourism jobs are like they are in Mallorca the world over: that's the reality.

To return to the theme of all-inclusive regulation, it is not one that is only exercising the minds of councillors in Manacor and Calvia and Balearic government ministers. In Benidorm, a commission is being set up to analyse the impact of all-inclusive. The conclusions of its findings will be sent to the regional government (Valencia in this instance). What is significant about this commission is the fact that it involves all interested parties, including the Benidorm hoteliers. Absent from its membership, however, are any tour operators, and as we all know it is they who hold the key, not the hoteliers, many of whom would rather not have to offer all-inclusive (a sentiment which exists in Mallorca as well).

But with the Canaries also setting all-inclusives in their sights, there is a discernible shift in political and business perspective. Finally, after a good couple of decades of all-inclusive there is some momentum and desire to address its impact, and it is a momentum being felt in different parts of Spain. Ultimately, however, the tour operators need to be included, as it is they who wield much of the power. But might they finally wake up to the responsibilities they claim in the marketing-speak of their responsible/sustainable tourism mission statements? Don't hold your breath.